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The train menu
Traditionally, preserved food has been a key component of cooking in Sudan, to keep from being spoiled by the hot temperature and the lengthy periods between harvests.
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Food-on-the-move is an interesting concept that may be considered from a variety of angles. Traditionally, preserved food has been a key component of cooking in Sudan, to keep from being spoiled by the hot temperature and the lengthy periods of time between harvests. In this way, food was made to last longer. Being on the move is also an important part of many Sudanese cultures, for example for the traders criss-crossing the country or for nomadic tribes who regularly move from one location to another but also for those who were formerly nomads but have now settled. These settled groups have developed new methods of preserving food such as fermentation which is not common among the nomadic tribes who consider this type of food to be processed or industrialized.
In Sudan there are specific dishes that are associated with travel, such as gurasat al-balah known mostly in northern Sudan and which is a flat, bread-like loaf made out of dates and is easy to pack with the date sugar providing much needed energy and sustenance. In western Sudan, another energy-packed food for travel is damasoro or khamis tawiera, which combines sesame seeds, peanuts, ghee and kisra or sorghum flatbread, dried dates and spices. The mixture is then made into a coarse powder which is consumed dry or with milk or water.
Milk products such as sour milk or roub is a travel food known more among nomads and garis is when different herbs, such as nigella seeds, are added to preserve it. Ghubasha and fursa are other variations of milk drinks. In Sudan, meat is processed in three different ways in order for it to be taken on a journey: lahma nashfa or dried meat, is a meat that is slowly cooked over a long period of time until it dries out, a similar process is carried out with fat and rind and is known as rabeet. Meat can also be dried naturally in the sun and can be either small strips of meat called sharmout, which is later pound into a powder format and used to make stews, or shugag, a specific joint of meat from smaller or wild animals, cut lengthwise into four, six or eight parts and dried together. Finally, meat can also be salted.
A recent method of transporting food, now that travel is faster and safer, is to prepare sandwiches, especially of ful or fava beans, boiled eggs and tamia or falafel. This trio of favourites is very popular in everyday settings and can sometimes even be mashed together in one dish. During times when trains were fully operational in Sudan, food-on-the-move was associated with restaurant carriages, serving mainly western menus for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea. They were also known for having their own packaged items for consumption such as flavored lemonade. A menu of food offered on the El-Obeid line when it was opened was recently shared on social media platforms. Written in French, the list contained dishes such as caviar and needless to say, this was not meant for everyone!
Service consisted of the famous white porcelain dishes with a green rim which, for first and second class passengers, would be delivered to your room or in the restaurant carriage. Today, the few trains that do operate do not offer catering and the simple sandwich has taken its place and can be bought in bustling stations amongst the hubbub of shouting vendors and cries of those coming say goodbye to their loved ones.
Header picture and Gallery pictures © Issam Ahmed Abdelhafiez
Food-on-the-move is an interesting concept that may be considered from a variety of angles. Traditionally, preserved food has been a key component of cooking in Sudan, to keep from being spoiled by the hot temperature and the lengthy periods of time between harvests. In this way, food was made to last longer. Being on the move is also an important part of many Sudanese cultures, for example for the traders criss-crossing the country or for nomadic tribes who regularly move from one location to another but also for those who were formerly nomads but have now settled. These settled groups have developed new methods of preserving food such as fermentation which is not common among the nomadic tribes who consider this type of food to be processed or industrialized.
In Sudan there are specific dishes that are associated with travel, such as gurasat al-balah known mostly in northern Sudan and which is a flat, bread-like loaf made out of dates and is easy to pack with the date sugar providing much needed energy and sustenance. In western Sudan, another energy-packed food for travel is damasoro or khamis tawiera, which combines sesame seeds, peanuts, ghee and kisra or sorghum flatbread, dried dates and spices. The mixture is then made into a coarse powder which is consumed dry or with milk or water.
Milk products such as sour milk or roub is a travel food known more among nomads and garis is when different herbs, such as nigella seeds, are added to preserve it. Ghubasha and fursa are other variations of milk drinks. In Sudan, meat is processed in three different ways in order for it to be taken on a journey: lahma nashfa or dried meat, is a meat that is slowly cooked over a long period of time until it dries out, a similar process is carried out with fat and rind and is known as rabeet. Meat can also be dried naturally in the sun and can be either small strips of meat called sharmout, which is later pound into a powder format and used to make stews, or shugag, a specific joint of meat from smaller or wild animals, cut lengthwise into four, six or eight parts and dried together. Finally, meat can also be salted.
A recent method of transporting food, now that travel is faster and safer, is to prepare sandwiches, especially of ful or fava beans, boiled eggs and tamia or falafel. This trio of favourites is very popular in everyday settings and can sometimes even be mashed together in one dish. During times when trains were fully operational in Sudan, food-on-the-move was associated with restaurant carriages, serving mainly western menus for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea. They were also known for having their own packaged items for consumption such as flavored lemonade. A menu of food offered on the El-Obeid line when it was opened was recently shared on social media platforms. Written in French, the list contained dishes such as caviar and needless to say, this was not meant for everyone!
Service consisted of the famous white porcelain dishes with a green rim which, for first and second class passengers, would be delivered to your room or in the restaurant carriage. Today, the few trains that do operate do not offer catering and the simple sandwich has taken its place and can be bought in bustling stations amongst the hubbub of shouting vendors and cries of those coming say goodbye to their loved ones.
Header picture and Gallery pictures © Issam Ahmed Abdelhafiez
